July 26, 2024 marks a key date for Wallonia and its culinary traditions with the registration of the name "Saucisson gaumais" as a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) by Europe. This label promotes the specific characteristics of local products, while preserving the unique know-how of local producers. Among the players who have contributed to this recognition, the University of Namur, through the AgriLabel project, has played a decisive role.

Created in 2011 on the initiative of the Service public de Wallonie (SPW) and supported by the Cabinet of the Walloon Minister of Agriculture, the AgriLabel project aims to support the region's producers in obtaining quality labels for their products, in particular Protected Designations of Origin (PDO) and Protected Geographical Indications (PGI). Informing consumers about the specific characteristics of these products is one of the objectives pursued by Europe in awarding these labels, while protecting them from imitations or usurpations of product names. This support is based on a partnership between two academic institutions: the University of Liège-Gembloux Agro-Bio Tech and the University of Namur.

Within this framework, the University of Liège-Gembloux focuses mainly on the technical aspects linked to production, such as characterizing the product and the manufacturing process, as well as delimiting the geographical area of production. For its part, UNamur is responsible for demonstrating the socio-historical link between the product and its terroir, its reputation and notoriety over time, essential elements for the recognition of a PDO or PGI denomination.

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Natacha Aucuit: historical expertise at the service of local products

Natacha Aucuit, a researcher specializing in food history at UNamur and a member of ILEE and Transitions, makes a key contribution to the AgriLabel unit under the supervision of Professor Isabelle Parmentier. Since 2013, she has been working on registration applications for products such as Fraise de Wépion and Jambon d'Ardenne IGP, among others. Its main role is to establish a documented historical link between the product and its terroir, based on rigorous research and a scientific approach.

In the case of Saucisson gaumais, this work required immersion in the region's agricultural and food history. Historically, the Gaume, which is slightly warmer than the Ardennes, shares with the latter a climate conducive to pig rearing, fed in particular on acorns and faines from local forests. Although these ancestral practices were abandoned at the beginning of the 20th century in favor of pig farming, they have left a lasting legacy, particularly in the manufacture of sausages. Saucisson gaumais, like its Ardennes cousin, is distinguished by a specific manufacturing process where the smoking method and the texture of the melee give the product its unique character.

Getting the PGI label for Saucisson gaumais is the fruit of a long process. Indeed, the process can take several years, not least because of the complex development, consultation and administrative procedures at regional, national and European level, and the questions posed by national and European bodies.

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Natacha Aucuit

The Cellule AgriLabel, although it does not prospect, responds to producers' requests according to their motivations and the specificities of each dossier.

Natacha Aucuit Researcher specializing in food history at UNamur and member of ILEE

At present, several other dossiers are underway, such as Miel wallon at European level and Boudin blanc de Liège at national level. These initiatives testify to the ongoing drive to enhance the value of Walloon terroir products, based on the historical and technical research of the two partner universities.

In short, AgriLabel, with the expertise of UNamur, welcomes an Applied History approach where academic research is mobilized to enhance and protect the regional gastronomic heritage. The success of Saucisson gaumais as a PGI is an eloquent example of this fruitful collaboration between academic knowledge and local know-how.

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Retrouvez un article autour du même sujet dans le magazine Omalius de juin 2018 (p.6).